VERY RALPH

US, 2019, 108 minutes, Colour.
Directed by Susan Lacey.

The Ralph for the title is clothing designer, Ralph Lauren.

This is a fairly straightforward documentary about the life and career of Ralph Lauren. Lauren himself has not been a controversial character in his own life and in his business empire, rather different from some of the other notable designers (who have had documentaries as well as feature films or miniseries about them), Christian Dior, Coco Chanel, Yves St Laurent, Giovanni Versace, Alexander McQueen…). This means that there are no real dramatic highlights – which means that a number of viewers have dismissed the film as unexciting or as boring.

However, the film offers an opportunity to see a successful American, and his being paralleled with the other migrants from central Europe and persecutions, the movie directors. In fact, Ralph Lauren was born as Ralph Lifshitz, his brother Jerry later proposing that for a successful business his brothers agree to a change of name. Hence Lauren.

Ralph Lauren had the typical growing up in New York City in the 1940s and 1950s, not well off, but living an ordinary life. Except, in retrospect and in photos, it seems that Ralph had an eye for clothing and style, creating his own personal style. The film also introduces his wife, since 1964, Ricky, as well as their three sons and their daughter, all successful, one a film director, another in the business, and one marrying a daughter of President Bush. More than well-connected.

Ralph Lauren makes it clear that he is not a designer like the classic designers, not doing his own sketches, rather relying on his eye, accuracy, sense of style, and having an effective supporting group around him. However, despite some difficulties early in the business, excess on loans, he remedied the situation – and never looked back.

Because of Lauren’s very American perspective, his clothes and fashions (although he dislikes the word fashion) did not excite the imagination of those who admired the designers from continental Europe. Rather, his style reflected the times as well as going back into American history, Cowboys and boots, for instance. And this changed over the decades, his working up to 2015 in command of the business.

It is a matter of taste how this film audience response to the range of clothes, the behind the scenes and the making and designing, the catwalk performances.

And there is no limit to the number of celebrities who are happy to testify in favour, beginning with a very elegant address by Audrey Hepburn who indicates that Ralph Lauren has become a fashion adjective which people recognise. Politicians, movie stars, friends all are happy to speak in his favour.

And, with photos and footage, we trace the changing look of Lauren himself, born in 1939, ageing through the various decades. And, there is a great amount of footage of Lauren with his children, and especially with his wife, his happiness in being with his wife and family rather than constant mixing in society.

There is testimony from Calvin Klein, his friend who grew up in similar circumstances. But it does show that Ralph Lauren had an American dream – and lived it.